Vougeraie-Musigny-Grand Cru 2008
Producer note: Winemaker Pierre Vincent (formerly of Maison Jaffelin) declared that 2008 was a "difficult vintage. It started with a troubled, and extended, flowering that caused a high percentage of shot berries. Then came a cool and wet summer that retarded maturities considerably, in fact rather than the typical 100 days from flowering to harvest, in 2008 it was more like 120 days! We began picking on the 26th of September because we finally obtained the ripe phenolics that we were looking for and I was surprised at how ripe the seeds were. Sugars were in the 12.5 to 13% range, which is better than merely good and in fact, we were pleasantly surprised by those levels as we didn't expect them given the summer. There was a lot of malic acid, which is to say in the range of 4 grams. By the time we finished thoroughly sorting the fruit there wasn't much quantity. We obtained an average of about 25 hl/ha for the 1ers but the grands crus were pitiful at only around 15 hl/ha. I elected to do a slightly softer vinification but for the upper level wines I used between 30 and 50% whole cluster because we had such a high percentage of shot berries. The malos were extremely long and slow and while all of the reds finally finished, we have some whites that still haven't even started. Overall, 2008 is a very fresh vintage that offers razor-sharp terroir definition." As I have observed previously, Vincent is making real progress and these '08s are the best wines I have yet seen from him.
Tasting note: A very backward nose that is also quite reduced leads to big, rich, and opulent flavors that possess a forceful, detailed and quite minerally finish that is serious, brooding and strikingly long yet despite the power possesses a seductive mouth feel that remains detailed and quite precise. I really like the texture and like the Bonnes Mares, it delivers a wonderful combination of power and finesse.